Chandler Trousers/Pants

I was really thrilled when I got the Chandler Pants pattern (gifted as Pattern Tester compensation). It only took me forever to finish these pants because I'm the type of person who ponders and marinates the problem for a while, and then also... life happens. 

I really liked both views, so I made a toile for both. But I ended up making the pleated version first because I REALLY wanted a pair of pleated pants.

Size, Fitting, and Adjustments 

I muslin a size 2, with the waist graded up to a 3. Technically, I fit in a size 2 hip, but I noticed in the final garment chart that the waist is smaller than the hips. Which I surmised would make putting on the pants a bit of a struggle. So I used Brittani's tutorial on her website to test out the front fly hack version, thinking that I would be able to get in and out of the pants easier. But then I was unsure about the fly topstitching because it looked a bit... off centered? The asymmetry was bothering me... so I went without it for this version.

Pleated view toile, front. Do you see the asymmetry that the fly front top stitching cause?

Pleated view toile, back. There's a bit of excess behind the thighs. 

Final adjustments I had to make were:

- thin thigh adjustment (see back thigh excess). I just pinned the inner thigh together until the back excess were less visible. 

- HBL at center back was dipping, so I raised it by 5/8"

- Shorten 3/8" front rise

- Shorten 3.5" between thigh & knee

- Shorten 1.25" between knee & ankle

Cutting and Sewing

The fabric I used was this very lightweight, almost sheer fabric from Itokri. I didn't realize how sheer it was until the fabric arrive at my doorstep. So I had to cut double of everything! Good thing I had 4 yards of this fabric! Using my Reader's Digest book on sewing, I basted the two pieces together so I can get on with assembling the garment. 

With the multi-layer fabric, I skipped the interfacing altogether, though in hind sight, I really should have interfaced the back elastic portion. But, for reinforcements, I did attach a piece of ribbon as a stabilizer at the waistline and the pocket openings. With the multiple layers, the waistline does get very bulky, so a stabilizer was a must for me. Just a warning, the waistline with all the pocket layers get really thick. So is the area where the pocket lines up with the side seam. Something to consider if you opt for a side zip.

Sewing Detours

Last minute to cutting it out in final fabric, I decided to extend the pockets so it fits my extra large phone. But I messed up and somehow somewhere, there's a 1/2" missing in the pocket facings. Don't do what I did... make sure you walk every seam. I made it work, but still - not a fun experience to figure it out on the spot. 

I also decided to add an invisible zip after all for easy getting in and out, so I unpicked all the waistband bits to insert it. MULTIPLE TIMES. Why? Because I'm a perfectionist. There I said it. Anyway, lucky for me, I recently subscribed to Threads Magazine's Insider Membership. They offer a video on how to insert invisible zip along side an elastic finish. It looks like you may be able to view without the membership here: Threads Video Tutorial 

I also added a hook and eye to the top of the zip because it doesn't seem to close together too tightly. Maybe it's just the nature of the beast... it turns out, they're not necessary, so I will be removing them. 

Final thoughts

These are some reaaaaally comfy pants! The big pockets size is awesome, despite the sewing detour. I would say this is a good pattern to start with for new-to-pants sewists because the elastic waist should make it easier to fit. Brittani's patterns instructions are always easy to follow, with links to jump around the pdf. When in doubt, check out her blog for sewalongs. 

I need to really retrace my finalized pattern before I begin to question the now tattered-with-adjustments pattern pieces. I guess I still have my muslin to tear apart and retrace for a working pattern! I'm looking forward to making another pair in my future in some stiffer fabric, with some kind of hack maybe?

Side thought: I had a chat with Michele from @winmichele and she mentioned that the creaseline of the pants should be in the middle (or close to middle) of the pant leg, which is not true for these pants. The front is 5/8", which I think is acceptable, but the back is 1.5" towards the inner leg. I'm uncertain if correcting this will help the draglines behind my thighs, so that's something for me to think about. 

Obligatory Butt Photo! Don't mind the wrinkles :)